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SUDAN


Location - North east Africa; Capital - Khartoum; Population - 31 million; Currency - Sudanese Pound

It's a three hour flight from Amman to Khartoum where Waleed Arafat of Lendi Travel was there to greet us with our hassle-free on-arrival airport visas - November 2012. MORE SUDAN

 

sudannote4The Sudanese Pound replaced the Dinar in 2007 following the Comprehensive Peace Agreement with South Sudan

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan2The huge egg on the banks of the Blue Nile is the Corinthia Hotel - Khartoum

 

sudan20As you'd expect the Corinthia Hotel is a fancy one, boasting a $3,500 Presidential suite - Khartoum

 

sudan5An amusement ride in the grounds of Mogran Family Park - Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan3Perching over the Blue Nile - Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan7It might not look much but this is a pretty significant junction, a meeting of two rivers - the White Nile on the left and the Blue Nile on the right merge to form the mighty River Nile. From here it continues on its journey through Egypt to the Mediterranean. On the left is El-Nilein Mosque - Khartoum

 

sudan16Enjoying a coffee at one of several riverside cafes is a great way to relax in Khartoum

 

sudan18Most are located between Mogran Family Park and the National Museum - Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan21Crossing the Mek Nimir Bridge from to central with Tuti Island on the right - Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan11Cooling off in the pool of the Grand Holiday Villa - Khartoum

 

sudan9I sneeked a photo of the Republican Palace which is home to President Omar al-Bashir, wanted by the International Criminal Court for war crimes in Darfur - Khartoum

 

sudan22Behind the Palace is the Republican Palace Museum, housed in a former church - Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan24General Kitchener's boat, the Melik, is beached on the grounds of the Blue Nile Sailing Club. Under Kitchener the British defeated the Mahdi army at the Battle of Omdurman - Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan25Opposite the Sailing Club is the 19th century St Matthew's Cathedral - Khartoum

 

sudan26Al Kabir Mosque is in the heart of downtown - Khartoum

 

 

sudan27Colourful cloth for sale in the souq south of Al Kabir Mosque - Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan28The ruins of Al-Shifa Pharmaceutical Factory lie on the northern outskirts of Khartoum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan34The United States launched a cruise missile attack on the site in 1998, believing it to be a chemical weapons factory - Khartoum

 

sudan90Enough signs at this dentist? Across the Nile from Khartoum is the former Mahdist capital of Omdurman

 

sudan76 The domed roof of the Mahdi's Tomb - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan79The Mahdi died in 1885 shortly after the fall of Omdurman to the British. The building is a copy, the British having destroyed the original - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan85Across the road from the Mahdi's Tomb is the Khalifa's House, home of the Mahdi's successor - Omdurman

 

 

sudan91A quiet Friday afternoon at Omdurman Souq, the largest market in Sudan - Omdurman

 

sudan37A common sight in Sudan are makeshift stalls where women sell tea and coffee - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan38A tea lady holds her cheeky baby at the Hamed al-Nil Tomb - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan41The tomb is the resting place of Sufi leader Sheikh Hamed al-Nil and the focus of a fantastic ceremony held every Friday - Omdurman

 

sudan43A very jovial dervish stands outside the tomb - Omdurman

 

sudan44An elderly dervish at the Hamed al-Nil Tomb - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan47Before the main ceremony, Sufis of all ages donate money then dance to the beat of drums and cymbals - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan55A large space is cleared for the dervishes - Omdurman

 

sudan46Local women among the spectators - Omdurman

 

sudan64...as well as the men - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan66In the foreground men are chanting and moving their clasped hands back and forth with increasing intensity - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan60Meanwhile a 'whirling' dervish spins - Omdurman

 

sudan61The ritual enables followers to achieve a higher state where they can then communicate directly with God - Omdurman

 

sudan63The people are very welcoming and the atmosphere is remarkably relaxed. Relaxed for the audience at least - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan68This 'whirling' dervish spun continuously for at least 45 minutes - Omdurman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan71This brightly dressed guy looks like the main man - Omdurman

 

sudan74Following the ceremony men gather to pray - Omdurman

 

sudan93A day trip in a 4x4 begins with a drive to Sabalooqa Falls, the sixth Nile cataract

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan98A mosque on the opposite bank of the Nile at Sabalooqa Falls

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan99The cataract isn't a waterfall as such, more like a gentle rapid, but it's a picturesque area worth visiting if you have transport - Sabalooqa Falls

 

sudan105Take a five minute hike up one of the rocky peaks for a lovely view of the area - Sabalooqa Falls

 

sudan108Walking through farmland at Sabalooqa Falls

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan106Rowing to the mainland - Sabalooqa Falls

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan100The local toilet came complete with a mirror and comb - Sabalooqa Falls

 

sudan109The ancientic Kushite ruins of the kiosk and Temple of Apedemak at Naqa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan111 The Lion Temple, or Temple of Apedemak, is dedicated to the Kushite warrior god Apedemak - Naqa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan112The Kushite god Apedemak is shown here with a lion-head - Naqa

 

sudan116Next to the Temple of Apedemak is the kiosk, sometimes called the Roman kiosk due to its architectural style - Naqa

 

sudan117Nomads and their livestock gather at a well at Naqa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan119Donkeys pull water buckets from the well 30m underground. Notice the clever dog taking shade from a fierce sun - Naqa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan119aA camel steals the limelight and poses for a photo at Naqa

 

sudan121The Temple of Amun was built in the 1st century AD by King Nakatamani - Naqa

 

sudan127Musawwarat es Sufra is another Meroitic site a 20km drive through the desert from Naqa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan126An elephant statue in the Great Enclosure at Musawwarat es Sufra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan128The ancient city was built some time around the 3rd century BC and was thought to be have been used as a pilgrimage site - Musawwarat es Sufra

 

sudan131The ghaffir (caretaker) comes to unlock the Lion Temple - Musawwarat es Sufra

 

sudan134The Lion Temple was built around 230BC by King Arnekhamani - Musawwarat es Sufra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan136Like Naqa, the Lion Temple was dedicated to the god Apedemak - Musawwarat es Sufra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan136aOur very knowledgeable guide Muktada takes a break in a restaurant on the road to Meroe

 

sudan188aSheep/goat hides can be used as liquid containers - Meroe

 

sudan140Meroe was the former Kushite capital and the royal tombs, in the form of pyramids, were moved here from Nuri in around 270BC.
They continued to be buried here until the fall of Kushite rule in the 4th century AD - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan158 The tombs are in various states of preservation, though here you can see the smooth sand of reconstructed sections - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan181The pyramids are divided into Northern, Southern and Western cemeteries, this being the better preserved Northern section - Meroe

 

sudan182There's around 100 pyramids at Meroe, though many have all but disappeared - Meroe

 

sudan165Standing in a funerary chapel, built on the eastern side of each pyramid - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan146Figures adorn the walls inside the funerary chapels - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan193Sunset between the pyramids at Meroe

 

sudan190The pyramids at Meroe lie just off the road between Khartoum and Atbara - Meroe

 

sudan188Me with Christina, our guide Muktada and driver Emir at the Mozon Hotel.
I highly recommend Lendi Tours for their professionalism and expert advice - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan197We had another look at the pyramids at sunrise - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan199They're a beautiful soft golden colour early in the morning - Meroe

 

sudan201A beetle scuttles across the sand at Meroe

 

 

sudan218Unlike the Giza pyramids in Egypt, where the bodies were placed inside the pyramid itself, at Meroe they were put underneath and the pyramid built on top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan240A solitary camel walks beneath the Northern Cemetery. That was the height of tourist activity - what a contrast to Giza! Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan238The Southern Cemetery contains older tombs dating back to the 8th century BC - Meroe

 

sudan231The Southern Cemetery lies about 500m from its Northern counterpart - Meroe

 

sudan230It's possible to have the whole site pretty much to yourself save for a couple of tourists from the nearby Tented Camp and the odd souvenir seller - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan247The Western Cemetery is on the other side of the main road and contains tombs of people a little lower down the pecking order - Meroe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan252The Royal City, former capital of the Kushite kingdom, is a rather run-down affair close to the Western Cemetery - Meroe

 

sudan251...though the goats seem to like it - Meroe

 

SudancrispsGood Time crisps, made in Sudan

 

sudan254We left Muktada and Emir at Atbara and spent a few hours hanging around the bus station waiting for transport on to Karima - Atbara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan277Basic accommodation at Khaled's house, a family living close to Jebel Barkal - Karima

 

sudan278Language was a barrier but the whole family were kind and very concerned for our welfare, culminating in a manhunt when we failed to arrive back at the house before nightfall - Karima

 

sudan256bA donkey leads the way to the River Nile - Karima

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan262The peaceful Nile waters on the outskirts of Karima

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan255The main square in Karima is pretty lively in the evening and offers a couple of places to eat and drink

 

sudan264Delivery by camel - Karima

 

sudan266The shovel of an Atbara minibus painted in the colours of the Sudanese flag - Karima

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sudan267A full moon rises above a Karima mosque

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Website and content Copyright © 2008-2013 Mark Wilkinson. All rights reserved.

 

LINKS

www.sudan.net - Sudan info

www.lenditravel.com - Lendi Travel organises tours and on-arrival visas

www.sudantribune.com - Sudanese news online

I am not responsible for the content of external websites.

 

 
 
 
   
 
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