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UZBEKISTAN


Location - Central Asia; Capital - Tashkent; Population - 32 million; Currency - Som MORE UZBEKISTAN

Another fast train took me from Samarkand to my favourite Uzbek city, Bukhara - September 2018.

 

uzbeknote2200 Som is worth less than 5 US cents

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek245Straight across from the train station, through a small park, is Kagan Palace, aka Palace of the Railwaymen, built by Bukhara emir Abdul-Ahad Khan in the late 19th century - Bukhara

 

uzbek247Top of my things to do - and a very obvious one - is a drink and a bite to eat at Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara

 

uzbek254Lyabi-Hauz is the square centreed on a 17th century pool, surrounded by a restaurant of the same name. It's a tranquil, beautiful place to be in the morning and early afternoon - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek258..and in the evening it busies up with tourists - both foreign and Uzbek - as well as locals. Throw in some live music for a great atmosphere - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek261An exhibition of local dance and song in Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara

 

uzbek262It's also a popular spot for wedding photos - Bukhara

 

uzbek263A statue of Hoja Nasruddin stands in front of Nadir Divanbegi Madrasah - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek264The courtyard of Nadir Divanbegi Madrasah on a warm September evening - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek268Just off Lyabi-Hauz, along an alleyway in the old town, is the Jewish Community Centre & Synagogue - Bukhara

 

uzbek271aCarpets on display outside one of the many carpet shops in Bukhara

 

uzbek278Taki-Zargaron, or Jewellers' Bazaar, is one of three covered bazaars in the centre - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek272Though heavily renovated these date back to the 16th century. A drink at Lyabi-Hauz followed by a wander of the covered bazaars is a great way to spend a balmy evening - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek274Colourful plates as well as pottery, traditional clothing, jewellery, carpets, ornaments, old Soviet coins and leatherware are just some of the items for sale - Bukhara

 

uzbek277The courtyard of my hotel just a stone's throw from Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara

 

uzbek279A catwalk show of traditional dress and decorative souvenirs at the Photo Gallery, a former caravanserai - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek284Another courtyard, this time the setting for an open-air restaurant - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek290The cute turquoise 'minarets' of the early 19th century Char Minar - Bukhara

 

uzbek293Any idea what the significance is of these model birds on the Char Minar? - Bukhara

 

uzbek296Take the steps up to a cafe rooftop for brilliant views of Kalon Minaret, Kalon Mosque (right) and Mir-a-Arab Madrasah (left) - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek297Genghis Khan was so taken by the 47m high Kalon Minaret (built in 1127) that he spared its destruction - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek299It's an amazing sight when illuminated, though for the life of me I can't work out how the lights set such an even shadow all the way up - Bukhara

 

uzbek302Chilkdren play in the shadow of the Kalon Monaret - Bukhara

 

uzbek304Through the entrance of the Mir-a-Arab Madrasah to the Kalon Mosque - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek308Walking through the arches of the Kalon Mosque - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek309The 16th century Kalon Mosque courtyard - Bukhara

 

uzbek321Again some more fantastic tilework, this being of the Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasa - Bukhara

 

uzbek323The impressive walls of the Ark, a royal fortress originally inhabited in the 5th century - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek328Nearby is the former jail called the Zindon - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek331Notable Zindon inmates were British soldiers Stoddart and Conolly, who had the unfortunate luck to spend a year in the Bug Pit, a 4m hole accessed only by rope, They were executed by the Emir of Bukhara in 1842 - Bukhara

 

uzbek337Taking the ferris wheel ride in Samani Park, a 10min walk west of the Ark - Bukhara

 

uzbek336Peering down on the 12th century Chashma Ayub Mausoleum from the ferris wheel - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek339Paddling(?) in front of a section of the original ancient town walls - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek343Shutting up shop outside the 16th century Abdulla Khan Madrasah - Bukhara

 

uzbek347Opposite the Ark are the distinctive wooden columns of the Bolo-Hauz Mosque - Bukhara

 

uzbek350A man tries to concentrate on the Koran while a hive of tourist activity buzzes around him - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek355South of the centre is the late 19th century Fayzulla Khojaev House, - Bukhara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek356I took this picture behind a photographer who was in the middle of a Fayzulla Khojaev House photoshoot - Bukhara

 

uzbek357Desert scenery on the overnight train from Bukhara to Urgench. I read the Bukhara to Khiva fast train was due to open in late 2018 but no such luck when I was there

 

uzbek366After a 30min taxi ride from Urgench, I arrived at the inner walls of the Ichon-Qala (old city) - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek371The 19th century Kalta Minor Minaret stands next to a converted madrasah, now the Orient Star Hotel - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek376Souvenir stalls line the route to the Kalta Minor Minaret - Khiva

 

uzbek370.. and plenty more stalls lie in the opposite direction, this time marked by the Juma Minaret - Khiva

 

uzbek377The famed Uzbek bread is baked in clay tandoor ovens - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek378Gotta have the tourist camel photo - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek384Late afternoon is a great time of the day for soft, warm colours - Khiva

 

uzbek381A woman sells sweets outside the old town walls - Khiva

 

uzbek393The wooden columns of the Juma Mosque create an intriguing atmosphere of darkness and light - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek400Climb the 82 steps of the Juma Minaret, next door to the mosque, for quality views of the Ichon-Qala - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek465Some sort of balancing act/tightrope walking takes place in this courtyard - Khiva

 

uzbek401Chaikhanas - or teahouses - are all over Central Asia, often consisting of tapchan (raised platforms with a central table). Take your shoes off, sip and relax - Khiva

 

uzbek467If the mud mosques in Mali are anything to go by, the wooden poles exist to provide structural support - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek406The Islom Hoja Mosque and Minaret was built in 1910 - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek414Time to climb another minaret! My third ascent in Khiva... This time the 57m Islom Hoja Minaret on the left

 

uzbek408But first I had a quick wander of the streets behind the mosque, which were far more residential and peaceful - Khiva

 

uzbek411Laundry time at the base of the Islom Hoja Minaret. On the peaceful side of course.. - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek420Peek into courtyards and beyond the city limits from the minaret. The domed building is the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek42914th century Pahlavon Mahmud was a poet and wrestling champion, and also the patron saint of Khiva

 

uzbek458Walking the old city walls, though note you can't reach the watchtower (pictured) from here. Access is via the Kuhna Ark - Khiva

 

uzbek445Some of the best views are from the watchtower above Kuhna Ark - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek438 The Juma Minaret (left) and Islom Hoja Minaret (right) stand behind the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrash - Khiva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

uzbek444It feels like every tourist in Khiva is at the watchtower for sunset! It gets busy up there, but you're well rewarded

 

uzbek456Sunset from the watchtower - Khiva

 

 

 

Website and content Copyright © 2008-2019 Mark Wilkinson. All rights reserved.

 

LINKS

www.advantour.com - A Central Asian tour operator but website has a wealth of information

https://caravanistan.com - The main resource for all things Central Asian - extremely useful

 

I am not responsible for the content of external websites.

 

 
 
 
   
 
   
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